The Suitcase of Courage

Cycling Fun Friday: Saddle Selection

For this week's edition of Cycling Fun Friday, let's consider equipment.  It's always fun to dream about how we'll upgrade our bikes, taking time to evaluate just what will make us go faster, look better, or - best of all - both.

Well, it's getting about time for me to get a new saddle.  My bike came with a Fizik Poggio, but when I wanted to trick out my bike to be a little more like the Team Saeco bikes I drooled over back in the day (c. 2005), I got a team edition Fizik Arione:

 
This is NOT my saddle, which has lots of the cover worn off.  Photo courtesy CambriaBike.com

For a racing saddle, I found it to be very comfortable, gave me a lot of seating options fore and aft (its primary design feature), and served me well in races and centuries alike.  So when I finally wore out that saddle, I tried to get another one in the same color scheme (to make the bike look jazzy, natch) but that scheme was a limited edition.  I was finally able to find a New/Old stock one on eBay, but now THAT one's wearing out.  And I can't find another one (though I keep trying - let me know if you see one).

So it looks like I'm in the market for a new saddle.  But finding the right one is a tricky proposition - once you find one that works for you, you're loathe to change.  The safest option would be for me to just get another Arione.  But I can't find one in the silver/red combo I like and - more importantly - the Arione's technology is becoming a bit dated (Gilberto Simoni used the prototype in the 2003 Giro).

Any recommendations?

Of course, my preference is for silver/red - or at least silver.  If I'm going to compromise on color, I'll probably just get another Arione.

But are there any recent technological advances in saddles I should consider?

Let me know in the comments - or shoot me an email.

In the meantime, I'll keep looking - though it occurs to me that this Selle Italia saddle would echo the skull & crossbones in my team kit (and it's silver):

 
Photo courtesy ChainReactionCycles.com

Cuz y'all know it's not just about being good, but looking good.

Have a great weekend!  And if you're racing, good luck and keep the rubber side down

Tips for Flatting in a Race

Coach Rainy has had gotten the "All Clear"

 So thank you all for your thoughts and prayers! 

My "Learning Points" section from the last post seemed to be pretty popular (though, as TC pointed out, it could also be known as "Remembering Points"), so I thought I'd delve a little more deeply into what I learned/remembered during this past weekend, having flatted not once, but twice, in two seperate races.

Actually, I guess the title of this post should be "Tips for WHEN you flat during a race."  Who'd want tips on how to get a flat tire?  Certainly not I.  Based on Sunday's experience, I've got the whole flat tire thing pretty well nailed.

So with Coach Rainy to assist us, here are a few quick tips:

• Have spare wheels in the pit area.  This is critical.  If you don't have spares in the pit, you can't change your wheels when you flat.  And they have to be in the pit - in the car doesn't count.
• Don't yell "I'VE GOT A FLAT!!!" as you come up to the pit area.  You'll just look silly.  It's obvious why you're there.  Just get about your business.  Think John Wayne, not Jim Carey.
• You actually can ride on a flatted tubular tire, but be careful and don't lean your bike or the wheel over too much.  Steer when necessary of course, but keep the wheel as vertical as possible.
• When you flat, raise your hand to let the pack know - otherwise, they won't know how fast you're slowing down.  Of course, keep both of your hands on the bars to keep from crashing.  Actually crashing in the field is much worse than just having the field wonder why you're popping out the back.

And THE MOST IMPORTANT TIP:

Make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that your valve stem is closed and any stem extender STAYS tight.

Valve stems are pretty straight forward and even if they're not tightened all the way the tire's pressure will keep them from opening (one of the beauties of the Presta valve design).  However, I've discovered that a stem extender is a different matter.  When the valve on your tube isn't long enough to allow you to pump up the tire (not uncommon with deep-dish wheels), you need a valve extender.  There are different types of extenders, but mine screws right onto the valve and has its own valve so that it's just like having a super long (like 80-100mm) valve stem.

But piggybacking one stem onto another comes with a risk.  Though I didn't know it at the time, the reason my front tire went flat this past Sunday wasn't because of a puncture.  Apparently the vibration of the road worked the front stem extender loose(!).  Now I'm glad I didn't get any sort of result - I wouldn't have been entitled to it since I didn't really flat - I had an equipment failure.  Unfortunately, I should have learned this lesson last August.  Fortunately, I don't have to buy a new tubular tire.

Until I figure out how to address this problem, I'm a little nervous relying on the tubulars - most especially the front.  Next time I install new, I'll be sure to put some teflon tape on the threads of the tire's valve to seal it tight against the extender.  But since I can't reach that with the tire already installed, I'm considering trying some LocTite, provided I can apply it where I need to.  And hopefully it won't end up gluing the valve shut.

Do any of you have any additional suggestions? (be kind - I'm still pretty new to valve extenders)

All of this discussion about tires and valves and such has clearly bored Rainy.  Hopefully, if you've made it this far you've learned something helpful - or at least know enough now not to make the same mistakes.

Tubular Tales:Naugy Crit & Three Rents

You can't be in the bike racing scene very long without hearing about the virtues of tubular tires and wheels.  You hear about how light they are, how sticky they are in the corners, how fast they are to spin up.  The talk is almost always in hushed tones, and bordering on religious devotion.

I always figured that - at my level of racing - those virtues would be lost on me.  I love my music, but I'm no high-level audiophile.  Plain old speakers work fine.  I don't need the Bose.  Besides, tubulars are fussy - who wants to worry about gluing those things on properly so you don't ROLL YOUR TIRE OFF.  You can't roll a clincher.  And if you flat, you're out $80 bucks.  With a clincher, you're out the cost of a tube.

But then a friend loaned me a pair of tubular wheels to try.  I raced them for the first time at a Tuesday Night Rent' race to get used to them and couldn't believe how light they were.  Sounds cliche, but it almost felt like I had no wheels at all.  Lacking the rotational mass of my Williams 58s, the rear wheel is harder to control when jumping for a sprint and it's a little more difficult to maintain high speed (no "flywheel" effect).

It wasn't until I raced them at the Naugatuck crit that I really started to appreciate them.  Despite pumping them to higher pressures than the Williams, they actually felt softer.  The Naugy track is always very bumpy, especially in corner 2 and along the backstretch.  Riding tubulars I felt like my bike had suspension.  It's a weird feeling to simultaneously have the road noise softened and yet feel like the wheels are even more responsive.  But that's the best way I can describe it.  And the cornering - well, I can't even describe that adequately.  Long-time readers know I LOVE cornering, and tubular tires stick the wheels like hot tar but somehow still manage to make them spin so fast you'd swear you had a motor.

After a lot of work by SDC to help keep things together, the Naugy crit came down to a sprint - but not before a pileup going into the final corner.  The crash held me up a little, but I got around it ok.  The wheels really shone as I came out of that corner - the lower weight helping me get the wheels up to speed from almost a dead stop.  I passed a bunch of guys on my way to the line, but was still too far back and got 13th place - lucky to have avoided the crash.

The Naugatuck crit is one of my main races of the season and I've done well there (3rd & 5th), but while I was lucky to have gotten 13th, I wasn't happy.  My stomach full of anger, I got my revenge the following Tuesday, racing those tubulars.  I won one prime, just missed a second prime, and won the race.  All three times, my jump caused my back wheel to jump slightly.  But I'm getting used to that when it happens, and getting better at preventing it.

The next Tuesday race ended up being training time.  A break went from the gun and the two big teams that evening kept a lid on any chasing.  I tried to bridge a couple of times, the new wheels helping me get an immediate gap each time I jumped, and I got really close to catching the break at one point.  But couldn't quite get there.

Last night's Ren't race looked promising, despite the VERY VERY windy conditions.  I helped out in the "B" race again and knew where the wind was coming from.  It wasn't hard to figure out.  When you turned corner 1, you basically hit a wall.  Heavy crosswind on the back stretch turned into a pushing tailwind from corner 3 to corner 4.  Crosswind again through the start/finish, but by that time you were carrying a lot of speed from the tailwind.  A smallish field would provide little shelter.

One bad omen: During my pre-race tire check, I noticed a staple(?!) in my rear tubular tire - ARGH!!  I pulled out the staple with my teeth and was trying to determined whether any air was coming out of the hole when Little KeithM rode by, asking me why I was chewing and licking my tire.  Everything seemed fine though.

And I felt good.  Good friend (and legbreaker) SteveG showed up for the first time this season, and while he's on a rival team, EXPO had extra help in the form of TC (racing his first A race).  TC, SDC and I didn't have any real plan for the race, figuring it would be a race of attrition, but I felt good because I figured with the wind and few racers it would be a bad night for a break.  I'd be able to try my luck again in a field sprint.

So when JimT got things going from the start and a small break formed, I just let them go.  And I thought they were still away when the bell rang for the first prime.  I couldn't figure out why SteveG was looking all twitchy after corner 3, looking like he wanted to go (bridge?).  When he launched through the long, sweeping corner 3, it dawned on me that there was nobody up the road after all.  And Steve handily won the prime.

That effort caused a split in the field and I caught onto the end of the front group of 4 riders.  To my chagrin, that group solidified into an actual break and we were getting a gap.  I wasn't too happy with that since I figured the break would be doomed, but I felt good so instead of sitting on and hastening its demise, I figured I'd help the break stick (unlikely I thought) or try to recover as quickly as possible once we were caught (much more likely).

As the bell rang for prime #2, we were still rotating through all nice-like.  As we got into the tailwind after corner 3, I was on Steve's wheel sensing he wanted to sprint again.  And, as if by divine confirmation, somebody patted me on the hip and said "stay with Steve - he's gonna sprint."  Sure enough, he did the same move he did before, but this time I jumped with him - the tubulars helping me stick to his wheel.  Steve's a very fast guy and as I came around him, he dug deeper making me work even harder for the line.  I beat him - but just barely.

Typically cooked, I was glad as Steve and I went through corner 1 that he didn't seem to have any more interest in trying to stay away from the break than I did, and we both reintegrated.  I was surprised after the prime that I was able to stay in the break, which by this point had over 1/2 a lap on the field.  At that point, I figured it would stick and I was looking forward to being in my 2nd ever winning break.  Even if I couldn't outsprint Steve and the others at the end, at least I was in the winning move.

That lasted for about two more laps.  I was feeling good (as I may have mentioned before) and rotating through, but as I hit corner 1, my front wheel slid out and it felt like my entire bike went sideways!  Fortunately, I recovered quickly and didn't go down - though everybody around me wondered what the heck THAT was all about.  It was apparent by the next corner what had happened.

I'd flatted my front tire.

I raised my hand and pulled to the side, hoping that would be adequate explanation for my "dirty riding."  I was ticked to have such bad luck, being in what in fact turned out to be the winning break, and now having to get to the other side of the track, get a new wheel, and try to get back in.  Downgrading my expectations for the night to "more training time," I put my Williams 58 on the front and got back in the race.

Still feeling good despite my misfortune, I sprinted to catch the field as they went flying by.  When I went through corner 1 - and hit that wall of wind - I got a big surprise.  My Williams wheels are MUCH deeper than the tubulars and the front wheel just about got ripped out of my hands by the wind!  So the race became more about learning how to handle deep dish wheels in a strong wind.  The crosswind on the backside was the worst.

I made some good efforts though, and having "rested" during the wheel change, had fun pulling what was left of the field for a few laps at a time.  At one point though, I thought my REAR tire had flatted as well and even took it to the car to check it, but it ended up being ok.  Just a case of spooks and worrying about that staple I'd pulled out.

At just before 5 laps to go, I went to the sidelines to watch the race play out.  The break had lapped the field and SteveG and a CVC guy sprinted for the win.  I thought Steve had just gotten it, but the win went to CVC.  I tried not to think of where I would have been but for the flat.

I also tried not to think what flatting a tubular tire would mean: $80 for a new tire, cost of time/labor to glue said tire, said tire not arriving in time for my last targeted crit (Fall River).  But something SDC said in passing at dinner after the race stuck with me.  When I went home, I checked the tire.  I couldn't find anything wrong with it.

Then - remembering that SDC mentioned something about valves working loose - I checked the valve.

Yup, loose.

Maybe I hadn't flatted at all?!  I tightened the valve, pumped up the tire to 140 psi and left it overnight.  This morning, it was still solid.

So the good news is that my tubulars are still in business and ready for the rest of the season's racing.  The bad news is that I have no idea how my valve worked loose so quickly.  That's a little scary.

If any of you have any thoughts or suggestions on this, let me know.  In the meantime, I'll be adding "Check Valve Stems" to my pre-race checkup.  I want any future Tubular Tales to be stories of races at least finished, if not won - not of DNFs due to operator error.

Tech Talk Tuesday:Which Wheels/Gears for Road Racing?

Ok, here's the deal.  A friend of mine is planning on doing his first hilly road race soon and needs to know which of his wheels to use and what gearing.

Here are my his choices:

Gearing

53/39 chainrings with either 11-25 cassette or 12-23 cassette...

Wheels

Mavic Ksyrium SL2s (aluminum clincher)

 
or

Williams 58s (carbon clincher)

Which combination of cassette/wheels do you suggest for, um, my friend?  To be fair - and honest - he's not a weight weenie, but FWIW the Mavics are reportedly 1485g and the Williams - while more aero - are 1879g.  Of course, that doesn't take tires/tubes into account.

And if it helps your evaluation, here's a sample course profile:

 
(btw, this shows 3 laps, the actual race is 5 laps)

So, cyclirati, racers and folks-with-advice.  . . . what say you? 

Tech Tip Tuesday:Swapping Bars

Back during the Bethel crit series, I was having some trouble with my shifting.  While I eventually discovered the primary reason for this, SDC and I thought it might also have something to do with my Campy Veloce levers and cables.  He suggested I try some Record levers he had lying around, and I had some brand-new Nokon cables I hadn't installed yet.  Thus, a fun Saturday afternoon of wrenching was planned.

Working with an experienced helper (actually, I was more the helper), things went very quickly.  The project was pretty straight-forward: Remove hoods, remove bartape and "under tape," remove cables & levers, reinstall all the new stuff.  But once we got everything off, we made quite a discovery.

My handlebar was bent.

Certainly not bent enough to notice - otherwise, I would have noticed long before then.  But apparently, my last couple of bad crashes - both on the drive side, unfortunately - must've banged that right side of the bar pretty good.  I'd noticed after my crash last October that the tape and hood on the right side were pretty well banged up (though not enough to justify changing it), but I had no idea how hard it'd been hit.

The right drop was bent in about 1 centimeter.

Not having a spare bar lying around, and the hour beginning to get late, we decided not to bother installing the new silver bar tape and new red Hudz opting instead for keeping the scraped up Hudz for now (still red though!) and "temporarily" wrapping the bars with nondescript black Bontrager tape (which thankfully SDC just happened to have with him).

Fast forward a couple months.  I've raced with that setup just fine.  The Record levers are AMAZING (natch) and the Bonty tape is cushy.  In the meantime, I got a new bar and just this past weekend got some time to install it.

Swapping out a handlebar should be easy - especially with the new stems that have the removable faceplate - and it is.  But being my first time - and flying solo this time** - I took my time to make sure I did it right.

I took a LOT of time - 3 hours in fact(!).  There is no way that it will take you as long.  But I did take lots of pictures so you'll know exactly what to do if/when you ever need to change your handlebars.  Follow along and I'll show you how, step by step.  I (almost) guarantee it'll take you longer to read this post than it will to actually do this project.

(as always, you can click on the pic to make it larger for more detail)

I have a workstand, but mounting the bike in a trainer keeps it lower as well as secure.  Just be sure to put a riser block under the front wheel to keep things level.  I forgot.  You'll discover why this is important.

Here's the "before" shot.

First remove hoods and tape.  You'll see both sides started here.  You start from the top of the bar.

Next, remove the "under tape" - the electrical tape securing the cables to the bar.

Before you remove the bar, make sure that the bike is level side to side . . .

. . . this way you can take a reading of how your current bar is set-up (tilted up, down, or level) using a simple bubble level.  This makes your current set-up easier to replicate.

**NOTE: Remember either to make sure your bike is level fore & aft beforehand (e.g. by raising the front wheel if the bike's mounted in a trainer), or make sure you don't change anything between reading your current setup and installing the new bar.  These readings must be done so that the only variable is the bar itself.

"Under-tape" removed, cables free.

I almost forgot: label the cables so you can put them back in the same order/location (a tip from SDC). 

There's a fixing bolt in the lever that tightens a bracket around the handlebar.  You'll of course need to at least loosen this bolt in order to get the levers off.  I thought loosening would be sufficient - thinking I could just slide the levers off.  But due to the bend in the bars, I had to undo the bracket entirely.  But it's easy enough to put back together.  I shouldn't have been intimidated by that - you shouldn't be either.

Levers off and dangling (gently), stem faceplate removed, bars removed.  Bike looks weird.

I emphasize gently since you want to be sure not to mess up any tension/setting of the cables.  I don't know if this is something you really have to worry about, but I did.  I figure better safe than sorry.

New bar installed & dangling, faceplate loosely attached.

Yes, I know it's a Bontrager bar on a Cannondale bike.  But Bontrager makes a good bar and they're a sponsor, so that's what I use.

Before tightening the stem faceplate, be sure your bars are set where your old ones were (assuming you don't want to change the position of course).  This is where I discovered that "level" according to the, uh, level, wasn't "level" in relation to the bike.  Because I'd forgotten to make sure the bike itself was level - and it wasn't since the rear wheel was raised in the trainer and the front wheel was on the floor without a riser.

No matter though.  Keeping the bike the same ("controlling" for that variable), I was still able to replicate my orginal bar position.

Ok, in case it hasn't already been made painfully obvious by this post so far, this pic reveals the extent of my OCD tendencies.

I just want to be ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN the handlebar is PERFECTLY CENTERED.  You - and probably everyone else - will probably just eyeball it.

I'm using this tool to make sure the distance from the stem to the outer part of the drop is equal on both sides.  In case that wasn't obvious.

After dialing 911 in the form of a panicky email and a quick search of the internet for "Cannondale Stem Torque Setting" I discovered that - DUH - the proper setting is printed right there on the stem, right where you need it. 

Using "good mechanical practice," I snugged down the four faceplate bolts in "X" fashion (like you would automobile wheel mounting bolts) to insure that the faceplate seated evenly and the bar wouldn't move from where I set it.  Then I used my new torque wrench (a present from Santa) to tighten the bolts to the proper, um, tightness.

Bar secured, put the levers back on, paying attention to the proper placement of the cables (guided by your little labels).

The Bonty bars have nice increments marked on each drop to help you position the levers at the same level relative to each other.  Interestingly, even though there are like 10 different increments, I used the top mark.  I wouldn't call my levers "jacked" but they're at least as high as Bontrager seems to think they should go.

And they're level with the top of the drop.  That's the important thing.

Cables secured at many points by electrical tape (the "under tape").  Your bar is now ready for taping.

NOTE: If you either a) aren't sure whether you replicated your position perfectly (or at least adequately), or b) want to change your position, road test your setup before you tape your bars.  You'll want to be sure everything is exactly how you want it before you tape the bars and fix everything in this position.

Living dangerously (despite my OCD) - or maybe it was just laziness - I decided I'd put everything back perfectly and was confident everything would feel exactly the same as it did before.  But I at least got on the bike and rested my hands on the hoods and pedaled a bit.  I also checked my shifting while I was at it.

Yup - everything felt fine.  I was ready to tackle Bar Taping.

If you've never taped your bars before, do yourself a favor and do what I did.  Check out this great, step-by-step How-To article.

Go ahead.  I'll wait.

Now that your back, if you followed the advice in that article, your bars will look (something) like this:

All done.  Nice new Fizik silver bar tape (to match the silver in the saddle), and nice red Hudz hoods to match the frame, and tires (this shot makes everything look orange, but they're red.  Deep red).  And not-so-nice basement wall that had to be cut recently due to flooding.

The last step is the most important: Road test everything if you didn't already (see above).  You'll want to be sure that everything feels right and that your shifting is still good.  I'd planned on road testing, but Sunday and Monday slipped by without my even turning a pedal.

I'll get to test it after work tonight though - at the first Tuesday Night Crit at the Rent'.  Nothing like a little racing to really test a setup(!).

So there you have it.  Next time you change your bars out, let me know how long it takes you.  I'd be willing to bet you'll beat my time.  Let's just say I won't be applying for any bike shop mechanic jobs anytime soon.  Yeah, everything will be PERFECT when it's done, but I'd only be able to work on about one bike per week.  In other words, I (or my shop) would lose my shirt.  Best to concentrate on the one bike I have.

**Oh - when I said before that I was flying solo?  I lied.  I actually DID have a helper . . .

 
 
 

Tech Tip Tuesday:Derailleur Hanger Alignment

There's a wise(crack) saying among certain bike racers: "Flesh Heals - Campy Doesn't."  Well, like many bike racers, I've had my share of crashes.  A couple of them have been worse than others - a broken collarbone here, a broken scapula there - but it wasn't until recently that I realized just how true that old saying was.

Case in point: My rear derailleur, or more precisely, my rear derailleur hanger.

Image from BikeWagon.com 

I've become pretty good at bike maintenance, but for the longest time could not for the life of me figure out how to dial in my rear derailleur.  I read all the books and articles until I figured it was just something peculiar about Campagnolo components better left to the experts.

Well, after racing like this for a couple of years - and it actually seeming to get even worse this season at Bethel - I finally decided enough was enough and I took my bike to the shop for a going-over.

Good thing I did.  Long story short, they put a gauge on the rear derailleur and discovered it was WAY WAY out of alignment - and in TWO planes (it was bent in, AND twisted).  It was so far off that an attempt to straighten it out actually broke the hangar itself.  (Note to self: Always have a spare derailleur hanger.  The CORRECT one.  Ask me how I know...)

Back in the old days, if you broke off a derailleur hanger, the frame was ruined.  Nowadays, the hanger is a seperate part - designed to break off before damaging the frame.  But if the hanger's been hit especially hard, be sure to have your frame checked too.  The mounting area could be slightly off too.

Installing a new hanger didn't solve the problem right away either.  Apparently, even new hangars can be a little off, so best to go to a good shop that will put everything back in proper alignment.  Or you can try to do it yourself.

I of course had no idea things would be that far off.  But as I thought about my biggest crashes, I remembered that they'd all gone down on the drive side (Note to self: When crashing, be sure to lay down the LEFT side of the bike to protect your drivetrain).  The one last October was particularly bad for my bike (and explained why the shifting was especially off this season).  To my credit (and relief) the shop guys were impressed that I'd actually been able to adjust the shifting enough to even ride the bike, much less race it.

But now it's all better.

So if you're having trouble dialing in your shifting and have tried everything else, check your derailleur alignment.  If you've crashed on the drive side, had your bike fall on the drive side, or even had your bike man-handled at the airport, an out-of-whack derailleur hanger may be the source of your problem.

Tuesday Tip: Front Derailleur Adjustment

I admit it.  I haven't had my road bike outside since December 2.  Other than a few MTB rides outdoors (and by "few" I mean, like, five), all of my training this winter has been on the indoor trainer.  As I mentioned last time, I don't mind the trainer all that much.  It's not like I try to do super long rides on it.  Much more than an hour or so and I'm WAY done.

But one thing that's annoyed me a LOT with the trainer is that, for some reason, the front derrailleur didn't want to move the chain to the big ring.  I could get it there, but it took a lot of finessing, letting pressure off the pedals, etc.  VERY frustrating for "Big Ring/Small Ring" workouts, as you could imagine.  I'd determined it wasn't a limit screw issue or cable tension, but couldn't for the life of me figure out what the problem was.

Fortunately, one of the side benefits of having Mr. & Mrs. SDC over recently was that I was able to have him give it a look.  It ended up being a simple fix . . .

TODAY'S TIP

When you're front shifting isn't as fast as you'd like (or isn't working well at all), check to see whether the derailleur has turned inboard.  When looking down the seat tube, if the rear of the cage is pointed slightly to the left, toward your chainstay, that's likely the problem.

Loosen the derailleur, and turn it so it is perfectly in line with the chainring.

You guessed it, my derailleur had turned in a little bit.  Since adjusting it, it couldn't shift faster or more crisply.

In other news...

Racing season starts a week from this Sunday!!  And we even had a great (as usual) team meeting last night, so I'm started to get really psyched about the upcoming season.

Just in time too - I noticed tonight that I hadn't uploaded my Garmin to TrainingPeaks since January 31(!)  I know they were rolling out their new site, but I'd been clicking over to "classic" mode since I really prefer that interface.  Well, I discovered classic mode is no longer available and I HATE the new interface.  Among other things, in order to get those cool cumulative distance graphs that I post from time to time, I now have to upgrade to the "Premium" account.

I'm considering giving TrainingPeaks the boot - especially considering some of the alternatives out there (MapMyRide, iPhone apps, etc).  I'd like to continue tracking my stats, but don't need all the numerous bells and whistles which tend to be more distracting than helpful.

What do you think about the new TrainingPeaks interface? Should I give it some time to win me over?  Is there another product I should try? 

Tech Talk Tuesday:Topeak Road Morph

You're having a great ride, enjoying the scenery and the road ribboning off in front of you.  Or, even worse better, you're commuting.

And you get a flat.  If you're like me, you probably carry CO2 and a tube.  And you're ok, usually.  But CO2, as fast as it is, is a one-shot deal.  It's tough to moderate the pressure and once it's gone, it's gone.

If you're smarter than me, you carry pump as well - either a "mini" pump or a frame pump, no matter.  But something in addition to (or instead of) CO2.

So here's today's Tuesday Tip: Get a pump.

I recently started carrying a pump on all my non-race rides.  And not a moment too soon either.  It took me a while to decide which pump to get.   Should I get something that fits into my jersey pocket (very pro) but is near impossible to use at very high pressures?  Should I get a large frame pump, and risk breaking off the valve stem with all that leverage?

Once I saw the Topeak Road Morph frame pump, it was a no-brainer.

This pic (courtesy Topeak) illustrates everything I like about this pump.  It has a T-handle for pumping at high pressures, a foot rest for keeping the pump stable, a flexible hose for protecting your valve stem, and even a pressure gauge so you know when to stop.  The gauge is an especially nice touch since you'll enjoy using this pump so much, it'd be easy to OVER pump.

It's basically everything your floor pump is, shrunk to a convenient size for carrying with you.  Here it is on my bike:

 

As you can see, it's fairly unobtrusive and attaches using two retractable zip ties.  These zip ties have little levers that allow you to remove them easily, which is perfect for taking the pump off quickly when you want to get your bike race-ready.  I've heard that there may be a mount that would allow you to attach the pump alongside your waterbottle cage, but I think that would require you to either a) leave the mount on while racing, or b) remove/replace your cage before and after every race.  While alongside-the-bottle looks a little better, you can't beat the convenience of just mounting it on the top tube as suggested.  The mount even comes with two small rubber squares to protect your frame's finish.  So once you remove it, it's as if it was never there.  And it's very secure, having a Velcro "belt" in addition to the two clips.

The pump works even better than it looks.  As I mentioned, I used it for the first time in the field during a commute last week and it performed just like my floor pump at home - just in a smaller package.  The T-handle really lets you push down for high pressure and the foot rest keeps the pump from jumping out from under you.  Best of all, the rubber hose absorbs all the movement between the pump and your valve stem.  No more broken stems!  I haven't done a side-by-side comparison of gauges, but I've heard the in-line gauge on the RoadMorph is pretty accurate.  So no more blown tubes.

Other than a tube (natch), just be sure you're also carrying some sort of boot (dollar bill, GU wrapper) in case you slice your tire instead of just puncturing it.  The RoadMorph is good, but it won't be able to help you then.

While I'm very pleased with this pump so far and recommend it, I have read on various bike forums that some folks have had quality control issues.  So if you have a Road Morph, be sure to weigh in with a comment about your own experience.

In the meantime, be sure to get and carry some sort of pump with you - especially on your long rides.  It may mean the difference between continuing your ride, or facing the indignity of bumming a ride home.

Tech Tip Tuesday:N-Gear Jumpstop

You've been hammering on the flats, doing all you can to stay with the pack.  You know the big climb is coming, but you're ready.  Your training and preparation are paying off; your fitness is dialed in.

There's the turn that marks the beginning of the mountain.  Easy now, as you hold your line through the corner . . . FAST as you and the rest of the group stand on the pedals to get a jump on the others, launching yourselves into the maw of the beast that is the climb.

As the road pitches upward, steeper, steeper, you click down through your gears.  Finally, you can't put it off any longer, you slam your front derailleur into the small ring.

KaShrrring! NO!!!  Your overeager chain totally skipped the granny and jumped from the big ring right onto your bottom bracket.  The grade prevents any forward momentum, and it's all you can do to clip out before you fall over.  Of course, that's the least of your worries now as you watch the rest of the pack disappear up the hill.

Or, if you're like me, you're warming up for the New London crit and your chain inexplicably decides to bail almost every time you downshift.  Of course it works perfectly later on, but your confidence in it is shot.

Either way, you need a solution you can count on when even perfect adjustment fails (which it inevitably will).

Enter the N-Gear Jumpstop.

I hadn't even heard of the Jumpstop until I read a great review by SDC.  But once I discovered there was a small, inexpensive addition I could make to my bike that would allow me to set the front derailleur and forget it, it was a no-brainer.  I had to get one for myself.

Ordering

The ordering process couldn't be easier - just email Nick and he'll send you one.  If you like it, you pay for it.  Otherwise, you send it back.  No hassle.  Satisfaction guaranteed.  The only thing you have to worry about is ordering the right size for your frame.  N-Gear's website has sizing tips so even if you don't know your seat tube diameter, you'll be able to figure out what size you need.

Note: The N-Gear only works with round seat tubes.  If you have one of those fancy-shmancy bikes with aero tubes, you can't use the Jumpstop.  But that's no problem - you probably keep it in the big ring all the time anyway.

Installation

The Jumpstop has to be mounted under your front derailleur and close enough to the small chainring to be effective.  Since there's not much room to work in this area, installation is a little tricky.  You could remove your chainrings to open things up, but you'll need to put them right back on anyway to make adjustments.  I just left them on.

The instructions are very straight-forward and easy to follow.  You may need to use pliers (channel locks) to squeeze the collar tight enough to thread the bolt into the nut, but I didn't find that necessary.  But I could have used the channel locks to help me make fine adjustments more easily (by turning the Jumpstop on the tube).  But that didn't occur to me until later.

The Jumpstop has to be 1.5 to 2 mm away from the chain to be most effective.  Instead of guessing, I just put a 2 mm Allen wrench on the side of the chain, moved the Jumpstop up against it, and tightened the bolt.  The only tricky part is that, as you tighten, the clamp has a tendency to turn out of parallel with the chain.  The pliers will help you hold everything still.

Note: The nut that comes with the Jumpstop has a small nub that goes into the slot on the guide bracket.  Do not lose this nut.  Its design allows you to tighten the bolt without having to hold the nut (which would be almost impossible).

Install time start to finish: 30 minutes

Operation

I went on a few hilly rides right after installing the Jumpstop and, no matter what I did, I could not get my chain to jump off the ring.  Just set and and forget it.  It's really that simple.

Final Thoughts

The best thing I can say about the N-Gear Jumpstop is that it totally and absolutely eliminates the possibility of a mis-shift.  When installed and adjusted properly, your chain will never come off the small chainring again.  The confidence that gives you in a race situation - or any time you need to downshift quickly - cannot be overstated.  Where before I would ease up on the chain tension and "nurse" my front derailleur over slowly, I can now just slam it over quickly and know that the chain will nail the ring every time.

There are other products out there that operate similarly, but only the Jumpstop provides a full stainless steel guide, and a clamp that is frame-finish-friendly.  At only $12.40 postpaid, I don't think you'll find a better value.

Let me know if you try this product - and if you already have one, I'd be interested in hearing about your experience.

Cycling Fun Friday:Bike Bling Bought

 

The weather has kept me from getting out to ride as much as I'd like, but rainy days are perfect for hangin' out at your LBS (local bike shop).

Our team's sponsor shop, Vernon Cycle, isn't too far from where I work, so during a recent lunch break, I went on over to pick up an order.  Here's what I got (try to contain your envy):

• Park Tool Heavy-Duty Apron

I've been wanting one of these for a while since - even though I keep my bike pretty clean - there's always a good chance black grease marks will inexplicably show up SOMEwhere on my clothes.  And since I'm seldom patient enough to actually change clothes before working on my bike (if I'm going to have to change anyway, I might as well kit up and ride), I'm in constant danger of ruining my perfectly good jeans-and-flannel-shirt combo.  No longer.

• Park Chainring Nut Wrench

Despite its scary sounding name, this will likely become one of the most useful tools in my new apron.  If you've ever tried to tighten a chainring bolt and have discovered the back (nut) just turning along with the bolt and never tightening, you need one of these.  Neither a thumbnail nor even a wide screwdriver will fit the two little slots as well, or be as effective.  I'm so excited to use this that I'm offering - for a limited time only - free chainring tightening.  Just call our operators, who are standing by, to schedule an appointment.

• Topeak Road Morph frame pump

I bought one of these a long time ago, then changed my mind, then got one as a gift, and then returned it.  Why vacillate?  Well, I know that a pump is superior to CO2 (it's less expensive and doesn't run out of air), but I didn't want to clog up my fancy racing bike.  But since I've started commuting, I realize that function trumps form when you ride over 40 miles to work.  And this pump is the bomb.  Not only does it have a little push handle and flip-out foot pad for stability and ease-of-use, but it has a short length of hose too - all the better to avoid snapping off valve stems (ask me how I know).  I haven't determined yet how accurate the built-in gauge is, but it sure is handy - and more than what's available with CO2.

• Garmin Speed/Cadence Sensor

Ok, I admit I didn't get this through the shop.  Garmin sent it to me free under warranty when mine quit transmitting last week.  But I thought the pkg would look good with the other stuff, so here it is.  It's totally essential for indoor training.

• GU

LOTS of GU, as you can see (and I have a box of 24 already opened).  I admit it - I love this stuff.  The Vanilla Bean flavor tastes almost as good as frosting.  And if you know anything about me, you know I have a sweet tooth.  I got other flavors though, for variety.  And I use 6 per day when I commute, so I'll certainly use it all.

• Tubes

While I already have some tubes in my stash, I needed new ones to go with my new wheels.  These hard-to-find tubes have stems which are a whopping 80mm long.  Valve extenders no longer needed (so HOB, if you're listening and need those back, lemme know...)

• Finish Line Cross Country Wet Lube

I've tried "dry" lubes (wax based) but they never seemed to work right for me.  While they would keep the chain clean, it'd sure be noisy.  And one of the joys of road biking is sailing along a well-paved road with nothing but the whisper of the wind to distract you.  I don't want a noisy drivetrain (one of the primary reasons I haven't switched to SRAM.  Well, that and the fact that I love Campy and don't have the money to switch anyway).  After seeing "words about chain lube" here, I knew that guy was speaking my language.  I got a bottle of Cross Country Wet, applied it as he directed, and have never looked back.

I hope you enjoyed these mini-reviews, or at least got some vicarious pleasure out of my little shopping spree.  Sure, these things don't technically count as  "bling" but for me they're essential for maintaining your ride.  And I needed a third "B" for the title.

Dunno yet whether weather will cooperate for tomorrow's race at Ninigret, but if it does, you'll know where you can find a full report & finish line video next week...

Til then, have a great weekend!